By Gwen Villet
May 19th, 2008
A visit to the Cederberg during the school holidays and over long weekends in summer could make you feel like you never left the city, but it's Autumn's best kept secret, writes Gwen Villet.
I couldn’t wait to switch off my phone, breath crisp mountain air, listen to nature’s symphony and especially not have to worry about Eskom interrupting another episode of Desperate Housewives.
Spending the three nights next to a roaring fire, sipping Merlot, under an infinite galaxy with my boyfriend Anton might sound more like the makings of an enthralling romance novel than a weekend away in the mountains. But I certainly wasn't complaining.
The mighty Cederberg blushed as we entered her Western border just before Clanwilliam, making our way along the 57-kilometres of dirt road that twisted and turned as it cut through the mountains toward our secret hideaway in Kromrivier. .jpg)
A well-kept secret to most visitors, these chalets and campsite are tucked away in a deep valley along the Krom River. You might think a 4x4 is necessary to get there, but any car is suitable.
After driving for just over one hour, we arrive to find the trees have exploded into an autumn rainbow. Oak and Yellowwood trees line the campsite, which provide much needed shade especially for those scorching summer days. We set up camp on a grassy patch with no electricity (one of the other benefits of camping at Kromrivier). Only the nearby chalets provide this luxury.
As the afternoon fades into the night, frogs and crickets sing out in chorus milieu our crackling fire. The temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius and we realise we’re in for a bitterly cold night. Thankfully we're well-equipped and of course having a human hot-water bottle doesn’t hurt.
Sunrise in the Cederberg is particularly special.
So we decide to get up a little earlier the next morning. As if in slow motion, dawn casts its rays onto the distant peaks, dew glistens on the trees above and the air begins to warm.
The Cederberg is home to a number of spectacular and well-known hikes such as the Wolfberg Arch, The Cracks and Maltese Cross to name a few. All hikes range between three-hour flat routes for the less experienced hiker to eight-hour climbing routes for more serious hikers.
Also, a three-hour walk along the Krom River leads to Disa Pools. On a hot day these pools are the ultimate destination after the four kilometre walk.
However, even though the trail is clear it’s not signposted so you could easily walk right past. Despite our resort manager’s warnings, even we missed the turn-off while attempting to reach the pools later that day.
Exhausted from our botched hike, we still managed to fit in a visit to the San rock paintings and caves called Stadsaal. The rock painting is a spiritual site dating back approximately 1 000 years and the caves are said to be over 450 million-years-old. Inside the caves we found writing dating back to 1881, including the name of Dr DF Malan himself. Click here for the gallery.
If walking or hiking is not your thing you can always take in the surroundings on horseback. Horse riding is very popular with the children at Kromr ivier campsite and this being one of my childhood dreams I signed up to ride the following day at sunset.
As we clip-clopped our way across the mountains glowing shadow, I reflected on our weekend together. Not only did our camping trip help me reconnect with myself and nature but it also made me realise how experiences are better shared with someone you love.
Other outdoor activities in the area include mountain biking, kloofing, rock climbing and 4x4 routes.
Kromrivier was reasonably empty, which is what I love most about this out-of-season break. Imagine no crime, no pollution, no beggars and only the solitude of nature. A visit to the Cederberg during school holidays and over long weekends in summer could make you feel like you never left the city.
Cederberg is a magical place and just a three-hour drive from Cape Town gives you the perfect weekend getaway for couples, families and single travellers.
When can I go there...
You should be a storyteller, very well written. I can't wait ot go there with the one I love...
Chan
Great article
Superb article, made me want to visit the Cederberg.
Cederberg
Fantastic article... have to visit the Cederberg now!
Awesome article... very
Awesome article... very inspiring. I feel like I visited the Cederberg myself...