Beijing blown up

August 6th, 2008
Touchdown in Beijing and the first thing to hit you between the eyes is the enormity of Beijing Capital International airport.
It's all polished tiles and slippery metal.
Softly domed ceilings, spotted with tiny skylights, seem to undulate to infinity. Rows of empty trolleys line up at the thirty-plus baggage belts awaiting the millions of travellers Beijing hopes to greet for the Olympics and beyond.
Unlike Dubai Airport which is an in-transit shopping mall, Beijing is a fully functional travel hub and is the first bow in a succession of greetings the Chinese government is laying out to show the world how wonderful, successful and strong New China really is.
Designed by Lord Norman Foster, of London's architectural practice Foster and Sons, the airport stretches three miles, covering 244 acres - that's roughly 235 football pitches.
It's impossible not to feel miniscule when confronted with such enormity and when we arrived a week and a bit before the official Olympic Games Opening Ceremony, it all seems a little bit eerie, like we've landed on another planet.
And in a way we have.
Keep your eyes peeled for when we launch out international packages but in the mean time try one of these competive local package deals.
There appear to be no other foreign travellers; the amount of foreigners I encounter I can count on one hand..jpg)
But in a matter of days there will be the largest convergence of nationalities on the city for the biggest sporting event ever, and yet, there's no one on the streets.
There has been a lot of press about how the city is cleaning up to welcome travellers: street food is being monitored, there's to be no spitting in public, taxi drivers have had crash courses in English, all over the city guerrilla Olympic information stations are being set up and red armband-wearing volunteers are on hand to help with directions.
It's curious then that from the moment we step off the plane there is still the sense that English is a big problem.
Security is super tight and little clusters of mint-green uniformed police march in formation left, right, left, right through the empty space. Our bags need to be x-rayed twice, our visas scrutinized, pictures looked over, double checked and finally we're let out.
In town it's no different.
I spend the morning walking through the Hutongs or tree-lined back alleys around the Forbidden City.
Hutongs are essentially the ancient streets and single-storey houses around the Imperial Palace. The homes of Beijing's real people. It's hot, in the mid thirties, and the air is so thick it feels like you're walking at the bottom of a muddy lake.The papers may be full of Olympic news, but here, people continue with their lives - shopping, cooking, eating, taking their children to school.
They're not curious about the caucasians. Why should they be? It's only once back near the tourist spots and markets that people start shouting out from shop fronts "meedam, tea?", "meedam, nice silk", "meedam, rickshaw?".
It's an unfortunate effect worldwide - the allusion is white skin equals easy dollars.
The effect of the heat and the humidity is totally debilitating. I'm starting to wilt and make the executive decision to find a place to sit in full-blast air-conditioning.
I decide to jump in a taxi and head north to the Olympic Stadium. I hail a taxi, get in and say "Olympic Stadium".
The driver, who has a lovely manner, looks at me blankly. Had I asked him to drive me to the moon, I most probably would have had the same response. .jpg)
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Out comes the map and I point at a drawing of the 'Birds Nest'. There appears to be no recognition of the drawing of the stadium, and he spends a good few minutes scanning his quickest route north.
It takes forty minutes in bumper to bumper traffic. The Olympic Village is not yet open and it's only possible to view the stadium from the road.
I'm surprised to see its all concrete. I expected something Gehry-like with sweeping steel arches. Instead the Herzog & De Meuron design is a most definite solid construction, all the spindles of the 'nest' are thick, grey concrete.
Although it's not as pretty as I expected there's a definite sense of irony.
Beijing, the seat of communist China is a sprawling mass of boxed concrete buildings, as a symbol of 'new China' the stadium's exceptionally modern, fluid, feminine design constructed in heavy, dictatorial cement is an interesting symbol.
The stadium is also open to the elements and I wonder how the athletes are going to deal with this crippling weather. I wonder how the spectators are going to deal with the crippling weather.
And the traffic, and the lack of English.
What everyone seems to forget is there are 18-million people in Beijing. The Olympics is expected to draw 550 000 visitors.
That's not really enough to get noticed.
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"It's an unfortunate effect
"It's an unfortunate effect worldwide - the allusion is white skin equals easy dollars." hey remove you blinkers and dump the south african white superiority mentality.tourists the world over are potential business.....blue,green or purple!
When in Beijing...
Why do we expect EVERYONE in the entire world to speak English (when in fact we English-speakers are hopelessly outnumbered on this planet, even though it is a common business language to use). That's like expecting a Chinese visitor to Joburg to jump in the nearest cab and say (in Chinese) "take me to Gold Reef City". Do you think that you would understand what he's saying ? I think not.
English in Beijing
I just came back from nine days in China, with visits to Beijing and Xi'an. I'm actually surprised that the writer struggled so much with English. In the touristy areas of Beijing I found that many people could speak basic English. The large restaurants usually had someone who could take my order in English. There were plenty of English-speaking Olympic volunteers on the streets, at the airport and at subway stations. Often I would try my shoddy Chinese only to get a reply in English. I think Beijing has done a great job of making the city more tourist-friendly, considering how few people in China speak English. It's definitely far better than when I last visited in 2005. The subway has been extended, and it is very easy to get from the airport to the city using the brand new airport express subway line.
Traffic is a problem, and I have to admit that I didn't come across any taxi drivers that could speak English, but that was easily overcome by showing them a map indicating my destination in Chinese characters. But the traffic can easily be avoided by using the subway system, which goes to most of the tourist spots, as well as the major Olympic venues. And at 2 yuan a trip (about R2), it's cheap!
Beijing
Having had the pleasure to visit Beijing a year ago I experienced the city in the middle of all the preparations for the Olympics and being an Olympic addict are very interested in the transformation to make Beijing tourist friendly. After I left I felt that the language barrier will not be easily addressed, the older people spitting in the streets not easily converted and the terrible smells fuming out of the streets to be there forever. I hope it is much better now. Don't know if I will go back there soon.
Beijing
As somebody who did not have an incling to visit the east, I was forced to a month ago on business. What an amazing surprise. I LOVED Beijing. the streets are without a piece of paper. The gardens manucured and the service, friendliness of the people unsurpassed. We found most people to be able to speak Chinglish (and lets be honest, their english is better than our Chinese). All tour guides are fluent in English with a western sense of humour as well. I agree that South Africans will be severly impressed with the visit and it is a MUST to eat real chinese. It is an experience, rather than a meal.
I agree also that the writer of the article could have done a bit more research on the structures as it is a beautiful building with some incredible engineering feats.
I for one cannot wait for the opening ceremony, I KNOW it will be spectacular. I can also not wait to go back.
Engrish or English... :)
I loved China, I travelled to the port-city of Qingdao, Qinghuangdao and Beijing. I was there primarily to check out their Olympic infrastructure and capacity to accommodate the expected over a million visitors for the Games. I found Chinese people to be humble, incredibly friendly, passionate about their country, genuinely interested in foreigners and their prospective countries, and more than willing to help in any way possible.
I felt safe...and I mean safer than a cow in a vegan restaurant. Not once did I feel the need to look over my shoulder or hold on to my bag tighter. One thing the Chinese have done right is 'visible policing'. There is a policeman on almost every single street corner standing on a raised block so that he is clearly visible - not smiling of course but that only adds to his look that he means business and is there to keep order.
While I agree English is not a popular langauge amongst the locals, they are trying their best and yes, when I spoke to the Olympic Committee they told me taxi drivers are all undergoing some form of English training ahead of the Olympics.
Whether they're learning Engrish or English is up for debate...Foreigners (or south Africans anyway) are going to love China. Good beer that comes in a standard 600ml bottle, cheap ciggy's and a sporting atmosphere only rivalled by a Bulls Vs Sharks final at Loftus. - Michael Appel
Beijing
What a great City, Of course No one cares if you are one of the few western Faces around, Beijing folk are used to thousands of buisness folk around, all year long, we just not there at the moment to avoid the hussle and bussle,
I was there last week the city s looking fantastic, If you want to go shopping, avoid the Mainstream malls and Head For the Yashow 5 story Market, in the Workers stadium district, next to the new Adidas crushed can building, Get all your Hi fashion Jeans etc for under RMB 100
If you feel like been stared at go to one of China's rural Citys,
Enjoy the Olympics, and if you want to watch the Rugby the weekend Head to the DEN great vibe, great Pizza, Opposite YASHOW market
Birds Nest
Emma should do more research for her next article.
The entwined and visible outer-structure is in fact made of huge twisted steel components. the seating structure of the stadium (not visible from the outside, is in fact built with concrete & steel.
Subocaj
BIRDS NEST/EMMA
I HAVE BEEN WORKING AND LIVING IN CHINA FOR THE PAST THREE YEARS,AND HAVE COME TO RESPECT CHINESE CULTURE.I DO NOT LIKE THE NEGATIVE UNDERTONE TO BE EXPERIENCED WHEN READING HER ARTICLE ON BEIJING.SHE SHOULD DO MORE RESEARCH,AND LEAVE THAT TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN TRAIT,OF BELITTLING OTHER RACES ,IN HER HANDBAG WHILE IN BEIJING .
EVERT LOUW,
XIAOGAN UNIVERSITY,
HUBEI,
PRC
I love China. This is the
I love China. This is the third time I've been this year. If I were to move, it would be my first choice. I'm so surprised by the reaction this article has engendered. I thought it was rather straightforward. Far from belittling.