Photo: Andrew Cole

Being a tourist in your own town is well worth it, especially if you live in Cape Town. Appreciating that one can be an intrepid explorer even if it's around the corner, I recently had the opportunity to experience the Bo-Kaap, quite literally one of the city's most colourful neighbourhoods.

As a melting pot of cultures and cuisine, the Bo-Kaap (or the Malay Quarter) is a fascinating fusion of languages, and a hotspot to learn about the legacy of South Africa's past and the modern ‘rainbow nation.'

 

 

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Just five minutes from the CBD, on the doorstep of the waterfront and with stunning views of Table Mountain, this compact district has a rich history in the South Africa's Mother City - being home to some of our country's earliest settlers.

On a perfect Cape Town day with clear blue skies and 21 degrees, I strolled into the charming little Bo-Kaap Museum, housed in the oldest building in the area. (It is one of fifteen Iziko Museums in Cape Town celebrating South Africa's diverse heritage.)

Tucked behind a sunny courtyard, the museum includes a collection of black and white photographs where I discovered a bit more about the diverse cultures that exist in this city.

Together with my friendly and knowledgeable host, Nizaam Peck, who lives in the area, I learned a considerable amount about the Bo-Kaap's Muslim population and Cape Malays. (For example, while many may think that Malays are ancestors of Malaysian emigrants, in fact, the term Malay is simply derived from Malayu, sea slang once used by sailors from Madagascar to China.)

Being Ramadan, the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, the Bo-Kaap was relatively sleepy.

Strolling the quiet streets, I spotted a few residents hanging out on their voorstoep, including a few men with Fezzes (traditional Muslim hats) and women with bright scarves covering their heads returning from the shops.

I also took the opportunity to poke my head into a local spice emporium on Wale street that included a multitude of colourful vats of fragrant coriander, fennel, curry leaves, turmeric and other spices (most of which are bought whole and then ground into powder in a warehouse just up the street).

My tasty shopping experience continued with a quick visit to an impressive halaal butchery on the same street to sample some delicious meats and meet the owner of a business that has been in the family for generations.

Learning to make samoosas and rotis

Next up was the highlight of the visit, a cooking experience with Faldela Tolker - a delightful mother of four who happily welcomes visitors into her home to share her culinary skills and friendly smile.

This "cooking safari", organised by Andulela, a local tour company offering informal hands-on Cape Malay cooking classes, was a delicious experience full of fun and engaging conversation.

At Faldela's home, we were greeted with a tasty tot of milk mixed with pink rosewater and some seeds (I can't remember the name).

Seated at her dining room table, I then learned how to roll rotis and carefully wrap chicken samoosas with fresh coriander - fabulous experience that was only bettered by the opportunity to eat the by-product of my efforts; something I did feel rather guilty about given it was Ramadan and neither of my hosts was able to eat during the day.

After enjoying a cup of cardamom-infused tea, it was time to leave Faldela's humble abode. Highly appreciative of her hospitality and good humour, I felt privileged to have experienced an authentic insider's view of the people and energy that sustains the area's spirited sense of community.

With the sun shining and a full belly, I walked through the Bo-Kaap for one last look (and to take a few pictures of the gorgeous exteriors of the local homes, each uniquely painted with pastel colours.)

If ever in Cape Town (or even as a resident), take the time to explore this charming and friendly neighbourhood.


 



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