In keeping with the nature of a wolf, the Lupus Foundation's Wolf Sanctuary certainly is off the beaten track.

The setting is reminiscent of a B-grade horror movie - all that's missing is the howl from this fascinating creature.

But not to worry, there's always the night-tour option.

Sign of the times

If you're travelling along the N2 in the Tsitsikamma region - expect delays. Much needed construction work has put one or two detours in play - which certainly adds to the "fun" of trying to find this already secluded spot. We can only hope signage along this part of the Garden Route will improve once all the road works have been completed.
As you pull up to the sanctuary, you're greeted by a number of hap-hazard signs nailed to the fence. "Look down while walking on the path to avoid snakes and scorpions." Inviting indeed.

The eeriness of the path is illuminated by the splatter of red spray-painted arrows and the odd titbit of information - "Fact: wolves have a bite power of 1 500 pounds per square inch." It all adds to the anticipation as you ebb closer. You can't help looking around nervously, and not forgetting down, in case a stray beast happens to pounce or bite.

Fear becomes your reality

Wolves, to put it mildly, are misunderstood and misrepresented creatures. We humans have a lot to do with these misconceptions. "Not by the hair of my chiny chin chin" ring any bells?

The sanctuary in itself owes its existence to human nature. Unscrupulous breeders, chasing the lucrative price these animals carry, have removed them from their natural environment and even gone so far as to create hybrid species by cross breeding them with dogs.

The Gray wolf, the species held at this Tsitsikamma safe house, is indigenous to the colder regions of the United States, such as Alaska, Minnesota, Michigan's Upper Peninsula, Wisconsin, Isle Royale, and the Rocky Mountains. These adaptive creatures have now started molting twice instead of once a year to cope with the South African climate.

Juxtaposed between a rock and a forested place

Once a wolf has been socialised it isn't advisable to return it to the wild. Yet they cannot be decoded from their instinctive wild behaviour. Not even cross-breeding inhibits it. This is where the Lupus Foundation comes in. As the only registered non-profit wolf sanctuary in South Africa they provide a decent existence for the animals, after their owners are unable to handle them.

As you eventually reach the top you are greeted by the enthusiastic volunteers who have clearly become accustomed to the smell of rotting flesh. It hangs thickly in the air, the only exception is that to wolves it smells similar to freshly baked apple crumble or whatever makes your mouth water. They're fed the carcass  of slaughter animals and often allow it to stew for days before devouring it.

Sad beauty of a caged beast

The place is alive with electric fencing for obvious reasons. After listening to an audio introduction on the organisation and safety instructions you're ready to walk along the pathways between the five enclosed areas of untamed wolves. You can't help becoming childlike with excitement as you weave along the fence hoping to spot some wolves.

Disappointment sets in as you find most of them curled up in burrows looking very lethargic - they are after all nocturnal animals. An alpha female indulges us with a slight show of aggression as she claims a comfy spot in the shade. Magnificent and certainly enough to make the hair stand up on the back of my neck.

Ignorance is bliss

The enclosure that houses all wolves born into captivity is a far more lively experience. The rustle of Sanctuary Manager Michael McDonalds's keys is enough to send them into a frenzied rush for the fence to lick and play.
Wolves reach sexual maturity after two to three years. The sanctuary has taken to clipping the tubes of all females after they have reached this period - meaning the only animals held here are either abandoned or those confiscated by wildlife authorities.

But would they bite the hand that feeds them?

The socialised enclosure is set up to encourage natural pack behaviour, and it is easy to spot trends of the dominant alpha male and female, according to Michael. "So we never let our guard down or forget what they are," he adds.

The genuine passion all the volunteers have definitely comes across as we are encouraged to sign the visitor's book. They must love what they do to live amongst that smell.

All jokes aside, this noble bunch has helped to turn a bad situation into something good.

Click here for our Garden Route packages, they deserve a wolf-whistle.