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Mossel Bay: Garden Route gateway

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By Andrew Barnes
January 9th, 2009

The tourist officials insist on calling the place “the heart of the garden route”, but with all the attractions of that route still further along the N2, I like to think of the place as more of a gateway.

Knysna is an easy 90kms away and Plettenberg Bay is barely an hour and a half's drive.

But don't be fooled into thinking that Mossel Bay is simply a highway oasis en route to Knysna, 4 hours' drive from Cape Town.

See the beauty that is Mossel Bay

With plenty on offer, especially at the height of summer, Mossel Bay has earned its stripes as a destination in its own right. There really is something for everyone here. You can spend as much, or as little, as you like and you're still guaranteed a damn fine time.

It's also a pretty historic place, Mossel Bay; home to the famous “Post Office Tree”, which was first used by the sailors of old over 500 years ago.

The sprawling Milkwood was where captains would leave messages for ships that would follow and, quaintly enough, you can still leave letters there for posting home.

It's also where Bartholomeu Dias came ashore in 1488 while on his epic journey around the southern tip of Africa.

The local museum boasts a full-scale replica of his “Caravel”, renamed in his honour, “Bartolomeu Dias”.

Hard to believe that this actual ship sailed from Portugal to Mossel Bay in 1988 to mark the 500th anniversary of Dias' historic trek. The museum is well worth a toby around, by the way. The entry fee is just R6 for adults, although you will need to cough up an additional R10 if you want to walk onto the ship itself.

Museums, of course, are a great way to spend a rainy day while on holiday, but mercifully those are few and far between in Mossel Bay. Primarily, this is a beach destination and it certainly doesn't disappoint.

While the beach stretches uninterrupted for kilometres, the jewel in Mossel Bay's crown has got to be Diaz Beach.

The resort is home to over a dozen apartment blocks and a 4-star hotel that line a 1500-metre stretch of pristine beachfront. The sight of bronzed bodies and countless beach umbrellas reminded me of Clifton's 4th beach, although the water won't take your breath away.

It's plenty warm enough to swim in and it's safe too, with lifeguards always on duty.

There are jet-skis to hire and sunset cruises to book. Set back from the beach is a fun fair, complete with a high-rise water slide.

Restaurants and cocktail bars complete the picture. Diaz Beach really is a one-stop-shop for your average holidaymaker and you don't even have to be staying there to enjoy all the benefits.

Entrance to the resort is free.

Further down the beach is the one questionable aspect of Mossel Bay's tourism offering. Largely owned by the Afrikaans Taal en Kultuur Vereeniging, the ATKV, Hartenbos is a nice enough plekkie to visit with the kids, but the place, and its mindset, are stuck in the 70s.

Don't get me wrong, Hartenbos is great for the little ones, with jumping castles, putt-putt, trampolines and ice creams, but there's a severe scarcity of good restaurants and watering-holes.

The only establishment that takes advantage of the fabulous view across the bay is the Spur. There's also a night-market, but some of the stuff on offer frankly made me uncomfortable.

Let's just say that now I know where those morons who wave the old flag at rugby matches get them from.

But don't let Hartenbos and its right-wing flavour put you off Mossel Bay.

It really is a great little destination and is largely free of the pretension you find in many of South Africa's other coastal cities.

There's a host of accommodation up for grabs, from 5-star guesthouses and B&Bs, to casino hotels and even budget cabins in an old train by the sea.

The town itself, while commercially under threat from the relatively new and sterile Langeberg Mall, is full of good restaurants and bars. It's safe streets invite you to stroll past beautiful Victorian sandstone buildings, while it's harbour offers cruises around the other main attraction, Seal Island.

The “Romonza” sail-ship is Mossel Bay's most well-known operator and leaves port-side every hour for the island. At this time of the year expect to pay R100 each for the pleasure, but if you're lucky, apart from 3 000 seals, you might also spot hammerhead sharks beneath the ship's hull. The Romonza also offers sunset cruises in summer. Those are R150 a head, but you do get to BYOB.

If the sea's not your thing, then you can hop aboard the Outeniqua Choo Tjoe. The steam train is up and running again, albeit between George and Mossel Bay. The schedule can be erratic, so best to call ahead and ask. They do recommend booking at least 24 hours in advance anyway. Mossel Bay Tourism handles those calls on 044 691 2202.

Mossel Bay ain't Durban or Plettenberg Bay, but it's pretty down to earth and calls a bucket and spade a bucket and spade.

And barely 4 hours from Cape Town, it's a breeze to get to. It's on the doorstep of one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the country and packs a mean punch as a beach holiday destination.

Now, if only the ATKV could get it's act together in Hartenbos....

Beach fun

Enjoy the beach. Explore the Cape from as little as R1 830 and it includes includes flights, car rental and accommodation. Book now!

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User Comments

Mossel Bay/Hartenbos

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 16:34.

Some of the comments, in response to the article, disturb me. It seems people cannot take the 'right-wing' comment in the article.
Look at it as an image issue - something to work on. You do more want to get more tourists into your town, don't you. That should boost the local economy - or it's doing just fine now?.

I just hope that the unwelcoming elements in Mossel Bay are few and far between.
I do find it intriguing when, as a black person, I get stares from other people when touring some Western Cape towns. Go figure.

Mossel Bay - I shall pass in fairly soon!

Pass'er by

Submitted by Le Roux on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 14:55.

Yes it's high time for Hartenbos to modernise. Just look at Durban, what a destination 2000! There's lots of theft and other types of crimes to fall victim to, not to mention all the people drowing in the sea! And as a plus - you won't find many Afr speakers to mess up your day. We would love it if you pass by Hartenbos again - just keep passing by.

Hartenbos

Submitted by Willie on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 14:02.

Andrew - wanneer kom jy weer terug hierdie kant toe? Jy is so welkom - dalk kan jy hierdie area se redding wees met al hul verset teen die werklike lewe en die lewe wat hul wil lei wat in 19voertsek was. Dalk kan jy ons kom help om 'n pragtige plek op te bou wat kan kers vashou met vandag, wat vergeet die lewe bestaan uit meer as net Afrikaanse witmense wat met oogklappe op hul oë deur die lewe gaan. Daar is wit Afrikaners wat nie in die verlede wil lewe nie - ons hou van wat die lewe bied in die hede en wil ook graag trots op ons blyplek wees - nie skaam dat ons nog agter die klip uitkom nie!! Dan kan ons geld ook in Mosselbaai Hartenbos bly in plaas daarvan dat mense dit eerder in George/ Knysna/ Plett ens gaan spandeer.

Mossel Bay-Hartenbos

Submitted by Renata on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 13:51.

Andrew - what a great article. You are so complimentary and at least you state your opinion (which you are fully entitled to) in a nice way - as opposed to some of those that simply attack you - some because they THINK you're saying something. And yes - this place is lacking far behind its counterparts - eg Knysna, Plett, Jeffreys, etc. And that is because of the mindset here. I stay here - I live with it every day and so wish we could get our place developed to its full potential, a potential I think that's greater than any of the other places. And there's really nothing to do, especially for the youngsters. Then they leave and we're still stuck in the time warp! But we can keep hoping & trying to get this place to come right.

Mosselbay - Garden Route Gateway

Submitted by Len on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 13:36.

I would like to enquire where the SPUR is in Hartenbos - with a view of the bay nogal!

I would think just because you don't understand or speak Afrikaans it is very easy (and utterly ignorant, never mind rude)to label a place "right wing"!

But tell you what, do us all a favour. Next time please pass the turn-off to our lovely town and pass onto Knysna! We, even without a SPUR, do not need you here!

Mossel Bay

Submitted by Wilma on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 13:33.

I stay in Mossel Bay and I cannot agree more with the writer. It's all absolutely true & I think it is a great article - it tells it like it really is. Look at the comments it received - about who invited you etc etc. The people cannot even take valid criticism - no wonder it's such an uphill batlle to educate them to more modern ways. I love Mossel Bay, but many times I'm quite embarrassed by it - especially when you proudly show it to people & they - is that it? And a lot of the people are so strange...... There are pretty few attractions & when you go on holiday you're on holiday - who wants to visit museums ad nauseum? It would be great if the place could start getting the vibe like Plett etc. But the straglehold on the place is slowly starting to break - it just going to take a few more decades!

Mosselbaai/Hartenbos

Submitted by Ernst Williams on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 13:13.

Baie goeie artikel wat, volgens my, meereendeels op die positiewe aspekte van die Mosselbaai omgewing fokus, ek weet glad nie hoekom jule die skrywer van die artikel anoniem aanval nie.

Ernst Williams

Yip, I know exactly what you

Submitted by Fay on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 13:08.

Yip, I know exactly what you mean about Hartenbos. I stayed at the ATKV resort for 3 days over the Christmas period with my husband and my 3yr old daughter. We stopped off at George mall before we checked in, where I bought my daughter a dark of complection doll. When we stayed at the ATKV resort, my daughter and I walked down the road one afternoon, and the doll attracted a lot of attention from people especially those that stayed in the caravan park. A group of white men were sitting and drinking outside their caravan, and when we passed them, they called the doll a "kafferpop", and burst out in laughter. Even in Langeberg mall did people stop to stare at the doll. So for you guys that suggest we stay away from Hartenbos, don't worry, no of amount of money will get us back in that tunnelvision, racist little dorpie. Keep clinging on to your right-wing attitude, because only God will judge at the end of the day.

Mmmm...I've been living in

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:52.

Mmmm...I've been living in this area for almost 30 years now and well it seems I've never had a problem with "right wingers" (I suppose they all arrive here for 2 weeks in the year.)

Dont judge this area from one "bad" experience.

Onverdraagsaam

Submitted by Carel on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:46.

Nee, Andrew Barnes. Duisende Suid Afrikaner geniet Hartenbos as 'n vakansie bestemming. Wat is jou presiese probleem met Hartenbosch? Jy kan tog nie so onnosel wees om die hele plek af te skiet oor die vlag op 'n vlooimark nie? Lyk my jy het 'n probleem met die Afrikaners wat daar vakansie hou. Jy maak asof jy nie rassis is nie, maar jy is uiters onverdraagsaam teenoor mense wat wit is en afrikaans praat. Gaan skryf oor politiek as jy so sou voel, maar hou asseblief jou neerhalende aanhalings uit Go Travel 24 uit.

my comment about Durban or Cape Town

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:27.

With reference to the comment made by Barnes: ".....the ATKV, Hartenbos is a nice enough plekkie to visit with the kids, but the place, and its mindset, are stuck in the 70s." - I only meant that maybe Cape Town or Durban will be modern enough for him.....

are the blacks near Secunda

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:18.

are the blacks near Secunda selling the flags also right wing?

Durban or Cape Town

Submitted by Jim (Mac the Boer) on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:14.

I cannot spek for the person making the suggestion but somehow neither Bloemfontein, Johannesburg or Pretoria hit the mark as seaside destinations. Durban and Cape Town are probably more cosmopolitan in the eyes of the commentator. I think the real answer is as was suggested, don't let street vendors change your view of a nice little seaside town. After the holidays the vendors also move back to Jo'burg or where ever.

only moron is the person

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 12:11.

only moron is the person that wrote it please stay out and did anybody invited you?

Please don't go to Hartenbos

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 11:58.

Please don't go to Hartenbos again ?!?!
Please ???
As said elsewhere , you belong in Durban or Cape Town.

out of interest..

Submitted by gt24.editor.lisa on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 11:54.

out of interest... why Durban or Cape Town?

Re: Mosselbay Garden Route Gateway

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 11:46.

Get with the programme, you should not judge a place like Hartenbos based on certian people selling the old flag that is not even residents from Hartenbos, you would think you are old enough to know that! A place should never been judged on individuals but on its character and beauty. Do us all a favour and rather go to Durban and Cape Town if you have personal issues to deal with.

Old flag

Submitted by Jim (Mac the Boer) on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 11:46.

If you are looking for the old flag there are black african street vendors in Vereeniging that sell them. So I suppose it is fine to sell them but racist to buy them.

......barnes , the part

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 11:42.

......barnes , the part about the right wing..... shit , I fell asleep !

I agree with the comment

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 01/09/2009 - 10:35.

I agree with the comment about the merchandise for sale on the flea-market and I surely also do not want to be associated with old flags being waved at rugby matches - but I think it is unfair to label the whole place as having a right wing flavour... I am sure you will find old SA stuff for sale in other places as well. It is rather a matter of whether you like the feeling of the place or not.