Off road with Kingsley Holgate

Kingsley Holgate is on the road again. The large man with huge grey beard, something of an icon in South Africa, constantly stops to engage, inform and give of himself; I was pleasantly surprised not to meet a macho “camel man” guy – but a true professional, an adventurer who uses the brand he has built of himself as modern-day explorer heading into Africa…to do good.

Kingsley Holgate casts as long a shadow as a giant Tembe Elephant Photos: Maryann Shaw

His latest 120 day expedition is to highlight nature, culture and community for Boundless Southern Africa a partnership between nine Southern African countries with seven transfrontier conservation areas (TFCAs) criss-crossing their borders, and all have agreed to and are co-operating to ensure that tourism, conservation as well as cultural and community development are all integral to their country’s plans for these natural resource areas.

Near Tembe Elephant Park Nkosi Mabhudu Israel Tembe, the monarch of the Tembe people, cell phone in hand and wearing no obvious regalia, stood on the Pongola river Bridge to welcome Kingsley Holgate and the nine 4x4s that make up the crew on the expedition. This is where I too was meeting up with the expedition.

But Kingsley was late.

At Tembe Elephant Park you are met by a smiling hostess and sleep in rustic luxury Photos: Maryann Shaw

Kingsley’s Land Rover was apparently on a 600km diversion that would bring him to camp only after we had finished dinner and were relaxing round the fire at the Tembe Elephant Park Lodge. He had been sidetracked by the Queen of Swaziland.

Arriving at 9pm, Kingsley only needed a Captain Morgan and coke, and then regaled us with fireside chat, explaining the concept of Boundless Southern Africa to us, the attempts by the various governments, conservation and tourism authorities to break down borders where they can, and how Tembe Elephant Park falls into the Tembe Futi Transfrontier Park, part of the greater Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation Area.

One would expect an exhausted guy in want of a meal, needing chill out time and bed, but Kingsley seems to have endless amounts of energy for educating and engaging with people constantly and has an enthusiasm that is contagious.

This is why he has been able to attract sponsors who will lend their name and products, money and services to the causes he chooses to endorse and support.
One of the projects of the Boundless Southern Africa Expedition is setting up soccer pitches in the communities along this 120 day expedition route – making the 2010 World Cup soccer come alive for communities rather than just something they hear about on the radio.

Asibuyeni Primary School make good use of their new soccer pitch Photos: Maryann Shaw

After an early morning game drive we went to the primary school located just opposite the entrance to Tembe Elephant Park.
At this rural school where there were no desks in the classrooms, a soccer pitch with freshly laid chalk in the dusty ground was glimmering with two large goals either end. A new container library had been erected and filled with books and magazines.
This was a very special day, traditional Zulu dancers put on a spectacular performance, soccer matches on the new pitch had an electric energy with a large crowd cheering and running onto the pitch when a goal was scored.

The festivities at the school included Zulu dancing and enthusiastic children Photos: Maryann Shaw

The Tembe community owns 50% of the Lodge in the Tembe Elephant Park, Durban based Ernest Robbertse owning the other 50%,and only local people are employed to run the luxury and semi-luxury tented accommodation in the vast 30 000 hectare big five reserve that is home to 220 elephants, the largest in the world.

The night we arrived Ernest introduced us to Tom Mahamba, who welcomed us around the campfire. Tom went to school for the first time aged fourteen, and has worked at Tembe Elephant Park for eight years. He now manages the lodge under Ernest’s mentorship.

This for me is what Boundless Southern Africa is all about.

The convoy of 4x4s moved north the next day to the Mozambique border at St Lucia, and only 25kms from the border is the stunning Ponta Mamoli with wooden cabins set amongst casuarinas trees along wooden walkways, not even minutes’ walk from a pristine beach.

Having said that, one would not attempt those 25kms without a 4x4 and for good measure, a GPS device.

After the frenetic activity of community and people and the rush to get to the border of the previous day, to wake up to the sounds of crashing waves, wander down to the beach and hop on the rubber duck taking the divers out, was just perfect.

Ponta Mamoli is right near the beach - making it the perfect place for a cocktail Photos: Maryann Shaw

Ponta Mamoli’s beach is idyllic, there is a lot to do if you are so inclined, from diving to horse riding, to swimming with dolphins and various other excursions, but I felt like doing as little as possible, and managed some time simply lying on the beach.

Kingsley said this of Ponta Mamoli, that it has isithunzi – which in Zulu literally means “to cast a long shadow” – he was speaking of the special atmosphere of the place, that it has a nice vibe – isithunzi is actually the Zulu word for dignity, and I think the word is an apt description for Kingsley himself. Where this man with isithunzi goes and casts his shadow, he leaves good vibes and in most cases a lasting difference to the people he encounters.