By Ed Suter
May 16th, 2008
J Bay, the name alone of this small Garden Route town just sounds smooth.
Hearing about someone going there always made me envious because there is an inherent coolness to “J Bay” and finally, I was going to get a taste of it.
After spending some time in Port Elizabeth for work, I decide to tack on a few days in Jeffrey's Bay for myself – to see the
world famous Supertubes and to finally learn to surf.
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These days the buzz about J Bay has become a roar: at every approach into town there are new developments being built, being planned or being advertised.
What had once been a weird mix of surfer dudes and retired civil servants is now a town full of property developers, golfers, new business owners and of course, surfer dudes and holidaymakers.
At the edge of town construction has started on the giant Jubilee Lakes development with its Jack Nicklaus designed 18 hole golf course, shopping centre, retirement home and school.
Then there is the proposed Jeffreys Bay Luxury Equestrian Estate and further development of the candy coloured Marina Martinique.
Although there are numerous hotels and B&Bs at the beachfront, especially at Supertubes, they seemed to be totally geared to surfers so I had decided to stay five minutes out of town at the inspiring sounding Artists Paradise .
Not to be left out of the action, Artists Paradise under its owner, Adelheid Peltenburg, has plans to develop into a luxury golf and wine estate – but this is all dependent on the approval of her plans to convert her agricultural land.
My first mission - surfing lessons.
At blue flagged Main Beach, everyone is a novice, the waves are perfect for beginners and there are plenty of people offering surfing instruction.
After a quick introduction to the basics, I was let loose with a board the size of a bus and within 10 minutes I was riding my first wave and adopting the pose seen on countless surfing magazine covers: crouching down and arm straight out in front in the style of “Grease lightning”.
I must have looked ridiculous in two feet of water but who cares I was surfing and loving it.
Watching the surfers at Supertubes, where an audience gathers on rickety benches at a look-out point, I realised how many years of practice lay ahead and what a rush it must be on the perfect wave.
Surfers from all over the world had gathered here, the legend of J Bay has spread far and wide.
For those trying to look like a local, Billabong Surf Village, at the far end of Main Road is the place to head for – especially the bargain-tastic factory shop. The Billabong brand is now synonymous with J Bay and hosts the annual Billabong Pro surf tournament.
In the future, J Bay is aiming to be seen as a golf destination as much as a surfing destination. A golf school has just opened in the town to cater to the growing demand of golfers moving to the area.
Until the course at Jubilee Lakes is complete, golfers can travel to the St Francis Golf Course set amongst the thatch and white wash homes of St Francis Bay, or to the 9-hole course in J Bay.
Amidst all this activity, there are also places I found to unwind, try the Walskipper restaurant perched next to the sea at Claptons Beach- the day I went some guests arrived by helicopter, cementing J Bay’s new found luxury status - to the Aquaspa in Wavecrest with its views out over the sea.
As I discovered during my two days of surfing and exploring, having the odd drink at The Jolly Dolphin on Main Beach and just chilling by the pool at Artists Paradise, it didn't take me long to feel part of this place and to feel, well, cool (ish).
It's the Garden Route's secret season, book now
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