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The Essence of Zanzibar

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By Gwen Villet
January 5th, 2010

One week in paradise was all we needed to help slow things down, forget about the weekly rat race, mortgage repayments and the constant reminder of the devastating economic crisis the world is facing.

The only snag with escaping to paradise, bizarrely enough, was that truly relaxing took some getting used to.

The flight to Zanzibar from Oliver Tambo International Airport took just three-and-a-half hours, but after having to beg fellow passengers for the use of their pen to fill out the visa forms, waiting 45 minutes for our bags to be off loaded onto the airport floor, not a carousel and then wading through the sea of billboards outside to spot our names, the total travel time clocked in at just over seven hours.

Like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, we weren't in South Africa anymore and here time didn't matter.

‘Hakuna Matata' (meaning no worries), said the face from behind a scrunched up piece of paper with our names scrawled out somewhat illegibly.

Mohammed, our driver, greeted us with a smile and showed us to his car. I was impressed that someone had even come to collect us, seeing my last visit to Zanzibar left me waiting for a hotel transfer that never pitched.

The 51 kilometre drive to Paje on the South East coast of the island took just over one hour.

The roads are tarred, but it's best not to expect much more in the way of first-world order.

People, cattle, and other mini bus taxis dominate the road, sometimes hurtling along at ridiculous speeds considering the amount of hazards along the way.

Not even my trip to Sicily, which I used to think had the worst drivers in the world, could compare to this. But somehow in Zanzibar, accidents are very rare.

There is a general respect; everyone seems to know each other, even the police at all five roadblocks we stopped at, seemed very friendly. Or was that because our driver paid him a small fee to let him pass?

Booking through a tour operator, was a little disappointing since our quote managed to increase by more than R3 000 from the time we booked until when we paid. You may want to consider being your own travel agent by doing an online booking.

However, despite the additional fee, our sea-facing, air-conditioned suite at the Arabian Nights Guesthouse in Paje was fantastic.

Not only did we have our own private beach directly in front of our room but we also had direct access to the main beach from there. We weren't complaining as most of the other resort's sea-facing rooms weren't as close to the crashing waves as ours was.

Every day a fresh breeze rustled through the hundreds of palm trees lining the coast.

Everywhere kite boarders zigzagged across the shallow turquoise water taking advantage of the constant gust so common to this part of the island.

Thus making it an ideal destination for kite boarders and windsurfers and also providing a welcome relief from the sweltering humidity.

There is a saying that goes: ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do', well we were in Zanzibar and that meant very slowly.

Check out the gallery here.

However fast or slow you wish to enjoy your holiday there is plenty to keep you busy.

The beaches are wide and flat and stretch as far as the eye can see so runners and walkers needn't worry about forfeiting their training programmes.

You can also rent bicycles, Vespas and motorbikes to explore the 21 kilometres of coastline from Paje to Ras Michamvi Resort. Our goal was to relax and get away from it all, so we didn't take in too many tours.

But those we did experience helped induce a sense of calm and further appreciation for our gorgeous planet.

The Safari Blue tour cost just 50 USD. We set out in a small boat and headed for a sandbank in the middle of the ocean where we were able to snorkel and relax. This was followed by exploring a beautiful mangrove lagoon and swimming in the mangrove forest.

To end the day, our guides treated us to the tastes of Zanzibar and prepared a seafood platter with lobster, calamari, prawns and grilled fish served with chicken tamarind and coconut sauces at a desert island restaurant.

Time had finally stopped for me with just three days left in Zanzibar so we decided to stay close to our resort in Paje.

The village is right next door so there is always a lot happening.

Depending on the tide, men and women can be seen wading out toward the reef to harvest their seaweed crops, which are later, sold on to Japan.

Fishermen take tourists sailing in their dhows (wooden boats carved out of a mango tree), local women offer massages and henna tattoos, and at sunset all the villagers, young and old, come onto the beach to play, socialise or train for their next soccer game.

Paje is truly the epitome of Zanzibar, a place that knows no time, only sunset, sunrise and the changing tides.

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"Paje is truly the epitome

Submitted by t blade on Thu, 07/29/2010 - 19:49.

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"Paje is truly the epitome

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It will be a good journey

Submitted by Susancai on Tue, 07/13/2010 - 10:17.

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About Zanzibar

Submitted by Anonymous on Sun, 06/20/2010 - 09:11.

There are no large wild animals in Zanzibar, and forest areas such as Jozani are inhabited by monkeys, bush-pigs and small antelopes. Civets - and rumour has it, the elusive Zanzibar leopard! Various species of mongoose can also be found on the island. There is a wide variety of birdlife, auto transport brokers
and a large number of butterflies in rural areas

Which I can tell is well

Submitted by sidkof on Sat, 06/12/2010 - 06:09.

Which I can tell is well worth it. You get three meals per day and local drinks is free. Friends we Auto Glass met there did not have the all inclusive package, and they paid a lot for food and drinks. One tour you have to do is to swim with the Dolvins. It was awsome. I must say I don't know the situation now.

Next you are faced with

Submitted by Auto Glass on Sat, 06/12/2010 - 06:08.

Next you are faced with dirty,smelly "call-boys" beckoning you to their taxi. Zanzibar is a dump ! The fish-market in Zanzibar Town is a cesspit. The people are unfriendly http://www.emergencyglassrepair.com on the island unless you give them cash. I will NEVER EVER go back to this crappy, over-rated island again. The word ZANZIBAR conjures up vivid, exotic island pictures......and that's about it

Tours of the island of

Submitted by Anna on Fri, 04/30/2010 - 01:09.

Tours of the island of Zanzibar is a rewarding experience with cultural attractions and natural beauty in the itinerary. There are a number of quality local tour operators, such as Ocean Tours, Simba Tours & Safaris, Sun Tours & Travel, Zanzibar Excursions, Tours and Travel Marzouk, Monda Tours & Travel, Tours and Travel Migoda Tours and Safaris Trust and who can arrange visits points of interest with multilingual knowledge and often the guides. I have also bad experience Zanzibar of Cheap Rental Cars in International tour operators include the sale of Zanzibar Zanzibar Tanzania Travel and Odyssey.

time of year

Submitted by Liz on Thu, 01/21/2010 - 11:40.

Best to go off peak season - we went in may and it was nice and quiet, and not as many hagglars as peak season. also stayed in Paje and loved it. it was a while ago though - 2004 :-)

Dar is a slum

Submitted by Pat Mc Groin on Thu, 01/07/2010 - 15:03.

I have just returned frrom Zanzibar. we landed by ferry from DSM and AGAIN had to fill out immigration forms etc, despite us having VISAS for TZ already. Standing in the hot sun filling out useless forms ! Next you are faced with dirty,smelly "call-boys" beckoning you to their taxi. Zanzibar is a dump ! The fish-market in Zanzibar Town is a cesspit. The people are unfriendly on the island unless you give them cash. I will NEVER EVER go back to this crappy, over-rated island again. The word ZANZIBAR conjures up vivid, exotic island pictures......and that's about it. Sure, some of the beaches are nice......opt for The greek Islands instead.....far, far better !.....and better value for money.

zanzibar

Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 01/07/2010 - 08:58.

how i wish that i was home even if there are now many differencs. how i miss the people smells @ food. Pray that one day i will return home for the end.

We went to Karafu two years

Submitted by Jaco on Wed, 01/06/2010 - 08:43.

We went to Karafu two years ago, it was GREAT! We booked through Thomson tours. We took the all inclusive package. Which I can tell is well worth it. You get three meals per day and local drinks is free. Friends we met there did not have the all inclusive package, and they paid a lot for food and drinks. One tour you have to do is to swim with the Dolvins. It was awsome. I must say I don't know the situation now.

Rip off Island

Submitted by Rolf on Tue, 01/05/2010 - 17:14.

We went to Zanzibar in September and I can say, NEVER AGAIN! We got ripped off every single day in the most ingeneous schemes imaginable. The police have roadblocks everywhere and the drivers of the taxis slip them money. Stay away from Karafu hotel. The staff are poorly trained and can get very rude.

Zanzibar a rip off

Submitted by Fandash on Tue, 01/05/2010 - 14:08.

I work on the Tanzanian mainland and have visited Zanzibar on quite a few occassions. It is a rip off second to none. The people are arrogant once they realise that you are not going to part easily with your hard earned cash, the police are beyond corrupt and the island is filthy. You are continuously hassled by locals who do not understand the words no thank you. There has been no electricity on the island since before Christmas and the government does not really care. Tourists beware of being scammed as this is truly a scammers haven. It is time Zanzibaris realise that without tourism they will indeed live a meagre existance. There are other countries in Africa that have far more too offer and have a far better attitude towards tourists. I would advise anyone contemplating a trip to Zanzibar to stay away.

Zanzibar is the most disgusting country I have ever visited

Submitted by Anon on Tue, 01/05/2010 - 13:20.

Myself and my husband booked a trip to Zanzibar in July. I have traveled to various places both in Africa and Europe and all I have to say is stay far away from Zanzibar.

We did a round trip on the Island and first stayed in Stone Town - our hotel there was awesome and beautiful, however you cannot leave your hotel without being harassed by every local to go on a tour. The tours are ridiculously expensive as the locals have to pay police bribes for all the tours.

The food is of absolute disgusting quality and super expensive. The local beers are good and value for money.

We then moved to Paje where our hotel was on a beautiful beach front. We had confirmed that there was hot water when we arrived there was none and the room smelled like rotten fish as there was something wrong with the drain.

The locals are only friendly if you give them something and when we went into the village to try to find cheaper food we were given scourns and the price of veggies etc became grossly expensive (worst than europe prices) and they grow these in thier back yard.

We ended up calling our holiday "Zanzibar and the 40 thieves"

Zanzibar is undeniably beautiful, but the locals greed for money spoilt it.

can be cheaper

Submitted by toffa on Sun, 07/26/2009 - 07:28.

Ok I was on a tour through Sub Saharan Africa on a scooter so I didn't pay for flights so not to sure how that works and what is the best way.
Ferries from Dar to Zanzibar cost about 20$ for the slow boat and 35$ for the fast boat - pay extra the 5 hours - 7 hours can be a b*tch.
Tanzanians are friendly but they want just one thing and that is your money - so when buying anything like tickets or tours ask around and not with the same guide (helper, irritating little dude who keeps staring at you wallet).
Nungwi is the best part of the island.

It is possible to stay in Zanzibar on a budget but quite difficult and I suppose that isnt what you want when on holiday in Zanzibar. Eat at the local restaurants if you want cheap food. Chora beach bar used to offer camping not sure if they do any more.

We booked our flights from

Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 07/21/2009 - 17:32.

We booked our flights from Cpt to Zanzibar on 1Time's website... it worked out much cheaper, and a lot easier than going through an agency. We also contacted the resort directly and booked and paid them online... it worked out better and we didnt have to wait for the agency to come back to us which would have meant missing out on a room because she or he was too busy to get back to us on time!

Also, my recommendation is stick to Nungwi in the far north - i have seen both Nungwi and Paje and its alot more beautiful and I definitely recommend Mnarani Beach Bungalows.. .they are seriously value for money and very romantic and quiet - also, make sure you take an all inclusive package, breakfast, lunch and supper! as it is sooooo expensive to go to Zanzibar these days and eat. another tip is pack a cooler box filled with your favourite snacks, and take lots of alchohol if you enjoy drinking - otherwise you will be paying up to R70 for one Savannah... and about R350 for a bottle of Nederberg Cab Sav! a box of Pringles is about R75 and a bag of Cashew nuts R85

ARABIAN NIGHTS

Submitted by Keen on Zanzibar on Wed, 06/24/2009 - 11:48.

My husband and I are planning a trip to Zanzibar and we really do not want to go through a travel agent. It would be awesome if we could get some tips on the best places to stay and maybe direct telephone numbers as I have seen prices ranging from $50 - $150 for the same place at travel agents.

Any facts and tips for our travels will be much appreciated

Zanzibar Tour Opperators

Submitted by John on Thu, 06/18/2009 - 17:55.

Just returned from an amazing trip to Zanzibar. We did allot of research before hand and chose Dream World Adventures, and will not look at any other operator in the future. Not only were their prices the best, under R6000 for a week package, but the most professional people around. They assisted with all our needs including our visas beforehand and all went like clockwork. We stayed at a small hotel on the East Coast, Kilima Kidogo, and had a great time with one of the owners Dina. Will definitely go back soon.