The Knysna Forest is a garden of secrets, an almost mystical place mostly unexplored... with reason.

Jealously guarded by South African National Parks, and formerly the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry, it is the largest continuous complex of pristine indigenous forest in the country and remains mostly the territory of animals, plants and conservationists. Its density is legendary, known to forever swallow those who stray from the beaten track, its intricate maze of trails only known to its permanent inhabitants.

But recently local company Bhejane Adventures secured exclusive rights to guide small groups of off-road vehicles through paths previously only accessible to staff vehicles, hikers and cyclists.
The 20km on Petrus-se-Brand road, the oldest logging path in the forest, is relatively easy in off-road vehicle driving terms but the mostly rain forest conditions and sharp slopes make 4X4 preferable.

The five-hour trip includes a tea stop and an authentic wood cutters' lunch of vetkoek, homemade ginger beer and milk tart.

Taking the road less travelled through the Diepwalle State Forest. Photo: Desmond Scholtz.

Since our Tazz was definitely not suitable, we meet father-and-son team Dennis and Frank Carlisle at the Garden of Eden parking lot and hop into the back of their more efficient ride. In front sits a mellow-spirited Rastafarian, community guide Sebastian Andrews, who shares earth knowledge on our trip. The following vehicles are issued two-way radios so that they also can tune into the guides' interesting narrative.

I feel like a sneaky child as we enter the Diepwalle State Forest through a no-entry gate, into the fine-leafed forest that dreams are made of. Dappled sunshine filters through the canopies of Yellowwood trees that rise 30 metres into the air, thousands of strands of ‘old man's beard' droop from their rugged branches. I wind the window down, close my eyes and deeply inhale the cool forest air, filled with the organic fragrance of wet leaves and running water.

In the background I hear Dennis tell of the incredible value of indigenous tree timber (up to R35 000 per square metre for a quality piece of stinkhout) and its careful management by conservation authorities. We hear of nearby Fisanthoek and Kaffirkop where the scene of a dreadful territory battle claimed the lives of farmers and indigenous peoples in 1802, and the much-published 1969 disappearance of UCT drama student Rosalind Ballingall.

We stop on a low water bridge over a trickling tea-coloured stream, the result of high tannin levels of the soil, also evident as black stains on trees and yellowed leaves on leathery ferns. Sebastian leads us down-river to show us a multitude of bright-coloured frogs and weird-looking algae on shaded trees. Dennis can't tell us the name of every tree, but we forgive him when we hear there are 640 species in the forest.

Discovering the rich fauna and flaura beneath the forest canopy. Photo: Desmond Scholtz.

Although the variety of birds and animals here are staggering, they are shy. Exotic-looking Knysna Loeries and the very timid Nerina Trojan hop clumsily through canopies while the cry of Fish Eagle can be heard high above. There are monkeys, bush pig, numerous species of buck, honey badgers, baboon, leopard and of course elephant.

SANParks' official stance on the Knysna elephant is that there is reliable scientific evidence of one remaining elephant. Findings of an external study using faecal DNA (Eggert et al) in 2007 suggested at least five remaining elephants and a parallel study by SANParks is in its initial stages.

Our next stop is a strange fynbos clearing on top of a hill, one of several patches throughout the indigenous forest, its origins a source of debate in conservation circles. It is agreed that woodcutters had stayed in these clearings where the vegetation is significantly different from the surrounding forest, but whether the clearings had already been there or whether they were created by the forest people remain unclear.

Dennis reminds us that an estimated 5 000 families made their meagre existence from cutting wood here from 1820 until their harsh relocation in 1939. The view from here is spectacular, a valley of forest and the bluest ocean on the horizon.

As we pass a few railway sleepers, Dennis tells of the forest train - a narrow gorge train track established between Knysna and Diepwalle Forest Station in 1909 to transport timber and give foresters a ride into town. The downhill trip took only two hours but the steep uphill was a harrowing four hours. The service was replaced by vehicle transport in 1949.

Lunch is a peaceful affair under a Yellowwood on the lawn of the Diepwalle community tea garden. The beautifully restored tea room is a former forester's residence with indigenous timber floors, doors and window frames. Old photographs and story boards tell of the forest station history and people.

A tranquil evening at the Diepwalle Tented Camp. Photo: Desmond Scholtz.

Spending a night here is possible at the Knysna Forest Camping Decks. It also allows you to explore the area the following day, which is riddled with walks, hiking trails and cycle routes (but stay on the tracks, no kidding). A great stop is the nearby King Edward VII Big Tree, an impressive 800-year-old Yellowwood of gigantic proportions.

The trip back to Knysna town and reality is only 20 minutes' drive but the serenity lingers... a value-for-money experience.