On the shores of Mauritius
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Fransie might not be the most refined name, but it worked out for a young resident of Franschhoek. Her fiancé asked her to marry him by reshaping the letters of the Boland town’s name, set in the mountainous hills above it, into her name while leaving the O as a symbolic ring. You’re either gagging or cooing with delight. Either way, love is definitely in the air in this little French Corner of South Africa.
The F word...
All things French are romantically infectious and the effects of the Huguenot descendents on Franschhoek are undeniable. Spending a weekend in the quaint town makes it possible to eat, sleep and drink all things romantic, stopping short of having you break out in a Parisian accent. If a love-drunk wannabe isn’t your partner’s bedroom fantasy, we suggest avoiding it at all costs.
If money is no object then deciding where to stay is as easy as brioche. Le Quartier Francais will make for an unforgettable experience. Not only is it home to The Tasting room, one of the world’s top 50 restaurants, but the deceiving entrance to the hotel surprises with an estate par-excellence.
Tucked away at the far end of the garden are the Four Quarters Suites, the epitome of luxury with its plush decor and romantic spaces. I can think of no better catalyst for sensual bliss. Renowned chef Margot Jansen says romantic requests are plentiful at the hotel. Her team has even been entrusted with a specially-made Easter egg that had an engagement ring inside – needless to say it ended smashingly.
Your might not want to venture that far on your first night, considering the unexpected delights you’ll find in your suite and the fine-dining at the Tasting Room. “There’s nothing more romantic than savouring the eight-course menu,” according to Margot. The menu changes constantly but its latest offerings include delicacies of crab lollipops, sugar-cured wildebeest loin and wild mushroom and potato lasagne. Mushroom-picking is quite a popular activity amongst the locals. A weekend market is held on the grounds of the Dutch Reformed Church, the oldest building in Franschhoek, and the delights on offer will have you spending lots of cash. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Each course is paired with a matching wine, allowing you and your partner to languish in the sensations of the food and each other’s company. “It’s a slow-paced evening and you don’t have to focus on anything else,” says Margot.
A lifetime on the lips
After an indulgent-night, a lie-in is a definite prerequisite. Or you may want to take an early-morning splash in the Four Quarters’ private pool. Thereafter, take a leisurely amble down Huguenot Street, the main artery of Franschhoek. At the head of the main street you’ll find the Huguenot Monument. There is a unique concentration of culinary expertise in this little town, you should see the stash I got at the market. Your stroll will slow to a snail’s pace as the street is alive with cafes, eateries, boutiques and art dealers but none comes close to my personal favourite - resident chocolatiers, Huguenot Fine Chocolates. The smell as you enter is simply heavenly. And what’s even better is these love bites live up to your expectations. It simply melts on the tongue. You get to pick and choose from a selection of more than 30 different types of chocolate, which include pistachio marzipan, champagne or mango truffle as well as dipped macadamia nougat. The cutesie-shaped choccies are handed over in a stylish pinstriped goodie bag – it’s a bit of a disappointment that you have to pay for it over-and-above the chocolates. Just inhale deeply...
Plain, simple but oh so delicious
For an afternoon typical of Franschhoek, head down Happy Valley road to the Moreson vineyard. Edged off with lemon and lime trees, you’ll be greeted by an unexpected find at the end of the road, the Bread and Wine restaurant. As one of SA’s most renowned restaurants, the name aptly describes its peasant simplicity.
Head chef Neil Jewel sums it up, “We’ll provide you with good food and good wine, all you need to bring is good conversation.” The vineyards surroundings are rather ordinary but the food doesn’t disappoint. A customer has even burst into Neil’s kitchen demanding he never remove his Truffle and Asparagus Risotto from the menu. Don’t expect anything kitsch or remotely set-menu-ish here, it will be met with the pomp of a true Englishman.
When it comes to romance this restaurant has seen its fair share. “Those who have held their first date here have returned with their children,” says chef Christina Slattery. “We’re proud of the fact that we have evolved with our patrons.” Neil admits oysters are the food of love but a must is to try it the Bread and Wine way – fresh from the West coast and served with caramelised lardo accompanied by potato and onion crackling.
And after you’ve dined in the country courtyard don’t forget to stop in at the bakery-come-deli, which is bursting with homemade sour bread, baguettes, preserves and salad splash vinaigrettes. Padkos unparalleled.
The Moreson Vineyard also offers wine tasting and you’ll be pleased to know that the cottage on the estate is now being hired out to the public. It’s a far cry from the lux La Quartier Four Quarters suits, but the self-catering would do nicely for a more extended stay in the Boland. There’s only one, which means its super exclusive.
Love soup to melt the heart...
To seal your weekend of love, be sure to reserve the Chef’s Table at Reuben’s. His rag-to-riches story lends to the fairytale atmosphere of the rustic, yet deliciously chic restaurant. He started out as a barman in a Franschhoek restaurant but fate drew him into the kitchen where he soon discovered his passion for food.
“Like love, food should be kept as natural as possible,” explains Reuben. If you have special requests, speak to Reuben himself. He bashfully admits he’s not romantic, but he certainly has a way with food. Here the menu will add to your evening “through its presentation, colour, aromas and taste.” But it’s the nostalgia of Reuben’s mother’s kitchen that has his heart set on serving up a love soup. “Food has a unique ability to recreate certain nuances and emotions and nothing does this better than a soup.” Share this wholesome dish, made with love, with your better half. This is just the tip of the fine-dining on offer.
The restaurant has a fireplace that is surely prime property in winter. The courtyard has an atmosphere all its own and its deli-section has breakfast options that won’t break the bank either.
Don’t mess with Tannie Topsie...
Before heading back home, be sure to grab an unusual bite at Topsie Venter’s place. Eccentric and feisty, this chef has earned her stripes after more than 15 years in the business and she’s also Nataniel’s adopted mom, so don’t mess with her. The food is good but it’s her old-school ‘charm’ that will add to your day and make you chuckle.
Expect nothing but the raw truth from Topsie. She loves organic foods, meats and sweet venison – the springbok frikadels with chilli jelly is just the thing to get you in the mood. Nothing store bought here, only farm fresh will do. For Easter they’ll be having a specially smoked lamb. What’s even more unusual but adds to the menu is that Tannie Topsie get’s her vegan daughter to prepare all the accompanying vegetables. “We make a good team,” she says. Another speciality is her homemade ice-cream. Flavours range from peanutbutter and chili, prickly pear to Grand Manier - or try a fresh plum-pinotage combination.
On your way out grab one of her fruit salami’s, they’re simply divine!
After all that quality food and soul time, you and your better half should be feeling ready to head back to the daily grind. Thankfully, Franschhoek shows little sign of changing or speeding up its pace, which means return romantic escapes will always be possible.
Au re voir...
PS... visit Food24.com for more delicious recipes.
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